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Robert Parker Wine Advocate-Bewertung Jahrgang 2018:
2018 Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken • Rausch Auslese Gold Capsule (AP 5)
Issue 244 End of August 2019, The Wine Advocate, 30th Aug 2019
Rating: 98
Drink Date: 2020 - 2080
From single, hand-selected berries harvested in the second week of October, with legions of wasps that terrorized the pickers, the 2018 Rausch Auslese Gold Capsule (AP 5) is spicy and fresh, very clear and excitingly fine, with lemon notes intertwining with crystalline and precise slate aromas. On the palate, this is an incredibly clear, precise and piquant yet dense and concentrated Auslese with a long and still aromatic, salty-vital and stimulatingly grippy finish. Selected from 2.5 fuders. A fabulous wine with a weightless 143 grams per liter of residual sugar. Tasted in June 2019.
After two difficult years with tiny yields, 2018 is a generous vintage for Geltz-Zilliken in terms of quality and quantity. "I have never seen so many filled vats in our cellar," delights Dorothee Zilliken. The family had extended the vineyard acreage by three hectares to now 14 hectares of vines, mainly due to new cultivation contracts in Ayl, Wiltingen and Niedermennig. The added vineyards increase the volume of the significant Estate Riesling, and 11 hectares are located in the Saarburger Rausch "Grosse Lage." The grapes of the Ayler Kupp were so good that Hanno and Dorothee Zilliken used them to produce a Grosses Gewächs (GG) here. The Kupp, from a leased 0.5-hectare plot inside the original Kupp that also includes the Scheidterberg, is not the only new wine for the Forstmeister, though. For the first time—and due to exceptional qualities and quantities—the Zillikens also selected a first GG from the Ockfener Bockstein, a cru that had exclusively been a source for Zilliken's sweet predicate wines so far. Even a fourth grand cru—the Saarburg Auf der Rausch GG monopole—is in the making but will be released only at the end of 2020 after an extended aging on the lees.
Zilliken's 2018 were picked between September 23 and October 10, and the dry wines come in with no more than 12% alcohol. The dry Rieslings as well as the feinherb Diabas are exclusively based on the free-run must and the first fraction of the pressing since it had a higher acidity level than the part that ran from the press later. "We did that already in 2009 and always do so for our base wines that will undergo the second fermentation to become sparkling wine," explains Hanno Zilliken and also stresses that no tartaric acid had been added in any of the wines, although this had been allowed.
The Butterfly, the GGs and the partly exceptional Auslesen are the most important wines of the 2018 vintage at Zilliken, but there was no suitable material to produce the Kabinett style. And there was no botrytis, not even for the produced Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese that are based on healthy shriveled berries and offer brilliant tropical fruit flavors in 2018.
All the wines were fermented at naturally cool cellar temperatures of 10 degrees Celsius (50 degree Fahrenheit). The results are perfectly ripe and elegant as well as fascinatingly precise, mineral-piquant and gripping Rieslings with many features of a cool vintage (such as stony and herbal notes), although the ripeness level is enormous.
Comparisons with such an exceptional Saar vintage as 2018 are always difficult. Like so many of his colleagues, Hanno Zilliken names the 1959 vintage, which was also an early vintage but very different from 2018. There are also some parallels to 2003 and 2011, even with the generosity and richness of 2005 and the tropical flavors of 1997, but in the end, 2018 is a unique vintage that will shine for decades. This is especially true when it comes to the Auslesen, of which the Zillikens have produced quite a few outstanding selections. After some difficult vintages, 2018 marks a fulminant comeback of Geltz-Zilliken.
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Fachpressebewertungen Jahrgang 2017:
97+/100 Punkte Luca Gardini: A vintage bottled in May and June. This ultimate decision determined the wine’s taste. The complexity, already evident by the nose, ranges from mature pear to the olive, and from coffee grounds to baked apples. In the mouth, so much more, with the sweetness kept at bay by an acidic juiciness from white fruit. Top post-sip persistence.
97/100 Punkte James Suckling: Forget dessert and just drink this. I promise you this is so much more delicious and healthy! Super ripe pears, mirabelle plums and figs pour from the glass. Power and depth, as well as great clarity. The finish is dazzlingly fresh. Drink or hold.
Fachpressebewertungen Jahrgang 2015:
98/100 Punkte Beste Riesling Auslese Deutschlands - Gault & Millau 2017
18,5/20 Punkte Jancis Robinson
96/100 Punkte Mosel Fine Wines
Auszeichnungen für Weingut und Winzer:
Winzer des Jahres 2017 im Gault & Millau
Gault & Millau 2018 5/5 Trauben - Wektklasse
Eichelmann Weinführer 2018: 4/5 Sterne = Hervorragender Erzeuger
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