Vega Sicilia ist das prestigeträchtigste und perfektionistischste aller spanischen Weingüter. Allein der Name flößt Ehrfurcht ein. Vega Sicilia ist Mythos und Garant für Weltklasseweine mit Bewertungen von bis zu 100 Punkten. Die Weine von Vega Sicilia sind die Belohnung der Geduldigen, jener, die warten können, bis Gutes zu Exzellentem wird. Und das kann, wie beim Unico, auch schon mal mehr als zwanzig Jahre von der Lese bis zum Release dauern.
Seit der Übernahme von Vega Sicilia durch die Familie Alvarez im Jahr 1982 (dem gleichen Jahr, in dem Ribera del Duero den Status als D.O. erhielt) ist aus Vega Sicilia ein in jeder Hinsicht mustergültiges Weingut geworden, das nach wie vor einen sehr traditionellen, an Bordeaux angelehnten Stil, mit jahrelangem Fassausbau und langer Lebensdauer pflegt. Bislang hat man allen Moden widerstanden und am klassischen Stil der Weine festgehalten.
eRobertParker.com # 221 (Oct 2015)
Drink 2015 - 2030
2008 was a challenging vintage in Ribera del Duero, a vintage marked by a severe frost on September 24th. The vineyards of Vega Sicilia were saved by some anti-frost burners that really made the difference. Even though, there are only some 70,000 bottles of 2008 Único, a wine that will be released around March 2016 after the 2007, and before they sell 2005 and 2006. It's a fresher, more mineral version of Vega, and very much Vega in character. It has a certain aroma that I cannot define that I also found in the 2011 Valbuena. The palate is surprisingly polished; the wine is quite accessible from now on, with fine tannins and a subtle thread of acidity going through the core. This is a lighter version of Único, but one style I like very much; it's a wine that should drink well throughout its life. A triumph for the vintage conditions. A couple of weeks before my appointment at Vega Sicilia, the big news broke: Javier Ausás, long time technical director at the Vega Sicilia group (recently renamed Tempos Vega Sicilia, a name that is a little pompous if you ask me), was leaving. A few days before I went, his replacement was named: Gonzalo Iturriaga. Who? That's exactly what everyone thought too! Iturriaga is an agricultural engineer with some experience in Ribera, one year in the early days of Alonso del Yerro, and then five years in Extremadura in charge of the wines of Habla, an ambitious project in a southwestern zone of Spain off the beaten track that didn't really take off. He spent his last five years selling yeasts and other oenological products for the French company Lamothe-Abiet, a CV that a priori looks a little poor for someone who is taking over the most prestigious winery from Spain. But let's give him time -- it will take a few years until we see any of his wines in the market -- and hope for the best. Other than that, they are releasing Único 2007 and 2008 before they sell 2005 and 2006, as the former are lighter vintages, and the latter are more powerful and require/benefit from some time in bottle. After tasting the wines, I followed the opened bottles and was a little worried to see that the wines showed plenty of oxidative aromas the day after, not what I expect for wines designed for a long and slow development in bottle.
19+/20 Punkte Jancis Robinson, JG2008: Deep garnet with a wide smudgy rim. Spicy and laced with sweet chocolate. A certain untamed quality to the fine dark fruit. Peppery and highly seasoned but that doesn’t batter the fruit, which is more like blackberry than cherry or cassis. As on several of the wines from this stable, there’s a savoury dark-olive quality. Tannins are thick, resolved but not yet fine/elegant. Still remarkably not ready for the fullest expression of pleasure but it is clearly moving towards refinement and already has wonderful length.
99/100 Punkte Guia Repsol, JG2008
98/100 Punkte Guia Proensa, JG2008
98/100 Punkte Guia Gourmets, JG2008
18,5/20 Punkte Weinwisser, JG2008
94/100 Punkte Guia Penin, JG2008
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