Vega Sicilia ist das prestigeträchtigste und perfektionistischste aller spanischen Weingüter. Allein der Name flößt Ehrfurcht ein. Vega Sicilia ist Mythos und Garant für Weltklasseweine mit Bewertungen von bis zu 100 Punkten. Die Weine von Vega Sicilia sind die Belohnung der Geduldigen, jener, die warten können, bis Gutes zu Exzellentem wird. Und das kann, wie beim Unico, auch schon mal mehr als zwanzig Jahre von der Lese bis zum Release dauern.
Seit der Übernahme von Vega Sicilia durch die Familie Alvarez im Jahr 1982 (dem gleichen Jahr, in dem Ribera del Duero den Status als D.O. erhielt) ist aus Vega Sicilia ein in jeder Hinsicht mustergültiges Weingut geworden, das nach wie vor einen sehr traditionellen, an Bordeaux angelehnten Stil, mit jahrelangem Fassausbau und langer Lebensdauer pflegt. Bislang hat man allen Moden widerstanden und am klassischen Stil der Weine festgehalten.
NV Vega Sicilia 2016 Unico Release Reserva Especial
eRobertParker.com # 221 (Oct 2015)
Drink 2015 - 2030
The NV 2016 Único Release Reserva Especial is a blend of different harvests looking for a consistent style. In the case of the wine that will be sold in 2016, it's a blend of 1996, 1998 and 2002. The nose is complex, reminiscent of the regular Único, with some herbal undertones, plenty of spices and something earthy, starting to develop some more complexity. The palate is medium-bodied with lively acidity (I think it blends three vintages that were above the average in acidity), but does not show the depth and elegance of the 2015 release. Even though they look for a consistent style through the different releases, there is no doubt that the vintages that compose the blend have some effect and the different bottlings show quite differently. I've been wanting to do a vertical (?) of Reserva Especial, as it's a wine that is not very well known and I think deserves more attention. Some 18,000 bottles of the blend to be released in 2016 were produced. A couple of weeks before my appointment at Vega Sicilia, the big news broke: Javier Ausás, long time technical director at the Vega Sicilia group (recently renamed Tempos Vega Sicilia, a name that is a little pompous if you ask me), was leaving. A few days before I went, his replacement was named: Gonzalo Iturriaga. Who? That's exactly what everyone thought too! Iturriaga is an agricultural engineer with some experience in Ribera, one year in the early days of Alonso del Yerro, and then five years in Extremadura in charge of the wines of Habla, an ambitious project in a southwestern zone of Spain off the beaten track that didn't really take off. He spent his last five years selling yeasts and other oenological products for the French company Lamothe-Abiet, a CV that a priori looks a little poor for someone who is taking over the most prestigious winery from Spain. But let's give him time -- it will take a few years until we see any of his wines in the market -- and hope for the best. Other than that, they are releasing Único 2007 and 2008 before they sell 2005 and 2006, as the former are lighter vintages, and the latter are more powerful and require/benefit from some time in bottle. After tasting the wines, I followed the opened bottles and was a little worried to see that the wines showed plenty of oxidative aromas the day after, not what I expect for wines designed for a long and slow development in bottle.
99/100 Punkte Guia Gourmets
97/100 Punkte Guia Penin
95/100 Punkte Guia Proensa
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