Bodegas Alto Moncayo wurde 2001 gegründet. Davor war die Winzerfamilie Teil der führenden Cooperative BORSAO in der kleinen D.O. Campo de Borja süd-östlich der Rioja. Entscheidend für den Ausstieg aus der Cooperative war die Zusammenarbeit mit Jorge Ordonez. Jorge Ordonez ist einer der erfolgreichsten Exporteure für spanische Weine weltweit und widmet sich darüber hinaus seit einigen Jahren leidenschaftlich und mit großem persönlichen Einsatz, um die Modernisierung und qualitative Verbesserung des Weinbaus in den lange unterschätzten Weinregionen in Spaniens Süden, wie Jumilla, Calatayud und auch Campo de Borja. Durch seine Vermittlung konnte der angesehene australische Önologe Chris Ringland als Weinmacher für den Eigenausbau der Weine von Bodegas Alto Moncayo gewonnen werden. Mit seinem Know How schuf er aus den bis zu 100 Jahre alten Garnacha-Reben aus bevorzugten Weinbergen an den Hänger der Moncayo Berge, derart dichte, konzentrierte Weine mit überwältigenden Fruchtaromen und Eleganz, dass Robert Parker diese Underdog-Weine als die besten der Region mit Spitzenbewertungen bis zu 97/100 Punkten in die spanische Elite katapultierte.
2012 Bodegas Alto Moncayo Aquilon
eRobertParker.com # 215 (Oct 2014)
Drink 2017 - 2025
The 2012 Aquilon is no shy wine in the dry and warm 2012 when yields were very low and produced very concentrated juice. This is a full-throttle Garnacha, ripe and rich, big and built like a tank, really young and somehow difficult to read as it's still covered by all that puppy fat, but tasting 2008 to 2011 side-by-side was a great help to picture how this 2012 could develop. This is somehow fresher than 2011 or 2009, but clearly needs to integrate the oak as it has plenty of aromas and flavors of chocolate, toasted bread and coffee. A very good vintage of Aquilon. Only 3,560 bottles were produced. Alto Moncayo, the winery created in 2002 by Jorge Ordoñez, Bodegas Borsao, Australian winemaker Chris Ringland and other partners to create the most ambitious wines from Aragón, needs no introduction, as their labels Aquilón and Alto Moncayo are well known by our readers. They showed up with bottles from Aquilón from 2008 to 2012 included, so I tasted the five vintages, which was great comparison, and also an opportunity to see the pace at which the wine ages. The wine is pure Garnacha from vines planted between 1920 and 1950 on poor soils with clay, iron and red slate. The yields are low and ripeness high, resulting in wines that regularly hit the scales at a whopping 16% alcohol. The grapes are harvested in 18-kilo boxes and sorted, crushed and fermented in small 4,000-5,000 kilo vats with neutral yeasts. The wine is the aged for 24 months in new oak barrels (20% American, the rest French, all of them new in all vintages). Aquilón is really a barrel selection, so Aquilón and Alto Moncayo are basically produced in the same way. What I found was that the character of the vintage was clear in the wines and they have different personalities, but the quality level is quite homogeneous. Alto Moncayo is not shy either, sourced from equally old Garnacha and fermented in the same way as Aquilón is aged for a slightly shorter time, around two years and the percentage of American oak is higher, reaching 40% which is both experimental (blind tasting) and because Ringland wants that character in the wine. These are clearly the most ambitious wines produced in Campo de Borja and in the whole of Aragón. Ripe, massive, concentrated, well-oaked and hedonistic Garnacha wines. I had the chance to taste the wines with Chris Ringland, who fell in love when visiting the mountain Garnacha vines from Campo de Borja in the early years of this century and that's how the story started...
94/100 Punkte Antonio Galloni:
(aged in new French and American oak barrels for two years) Inky purple.
Explosive spice- and smoke-accented aromas of ripe dark fruits,
potpourri and candied licorice, with a zesty white pepper quality
emerging as the wine opens up. Sweet, expansive and round on the palate,
offering intense, mineral-laced blackberry and violet pastille flavors
and repeating smokiness. Utterly stains the palate and shows noteworthy
power and lift on the strikingly long finish, with building tannins
adding shape and grip. There are only 200 cases of this elegant bruiser,
which is made from a selection of the estate's oldest vines, most of
which were planted over 100 years ago.
96/100 Punkte Guia Penin, JG 20113
99/100 Punkte Silkes Weinmesse 2016, JG2012
Über 1.000 Messebesucher wählten ihre Lieblingsweine
98/100 Punkte Guia Gourmets, JG2012
96/100 Punkte Guia Penin, JG2012
94/100 Punkte Wine Spectator, JG2012: Sleek and dense, this red shows impressive richness yet remains focused and harmonious. Ripe fruit flavors of black cherry and blueberry are balanced by savory notes of mineral and wild herb. The firm tannins are well-integrated, while a beam of acidity keeps this fresh. Drink now through 2025. 100 cases made.
94/100 Punkte Antonio Galloni, JG2012: (100% garnacha, from vines that were reportedly planted in 1910; malo and two years of aging in 70% new French and 30% new American oak): Opaque ruby. Black raspberry, blueberry, sandalwood, vanilla and candied flowers on the intensely perfumed nose. Densely packed and expansive, with complex, spice-accented flavors of blackcurrant, boysenberry and allspice that show superb concentration but comes off surprisingly lithe. A juicy, suave, seamless wine that finishes spicy and extremely long, with velvety tannins building slowly and adding shape.
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