Das 1776 gegründete Champagnerhaus Roederer in Reims besitzt über 200 ha Rebflächen, ausschließlich Premier und Gran Cru Lagen. Das Unternehmen wird heute von Frederic Rouzaud geführt, der kompromisslose Champagnerqualitäten der Spitzenklasse erzeugt. Mit dieser umfassenden Rebfläche ist er in der Lage, 2/3 des eigenen Traubenbedarfs selbst zu decken, eine unabdingbare Voraussetzung für die Erzeugung großer Champagner. Den Stil und Beständigkeit seiner Champagner garantiert er mit einer großen Auswahl an Reserveweinen. Für den Cristal werden nur die hochwertigsten Trauben aus den besten klassifizierten Lagen verwendet. Als Jahrgangschampagner reift er insgesamt fünf bis sechs Jahre auf Hefe mit weiteren acht Monaten nach dem Degorgieren.
Im Glas zeigt der Champagne Louis Roederer Cristal Brut ein leuchtendes Goldgelb mit grünen Reflexen. Feingliedriges und ewig anhaltendes Mousseux, vielschichtige Aromen von frischen Mandeln und süßen Blüten, reifen Früchten und Weinbergpfirsich. Anklänge von weißer Schokolade mit einem Hauch Karamell sowie gerösteten Haselnüssen, elegant seidige Textur, lebendiges Wechselspiel von Frucht und Säure, großes Finale. Sehr gelungen.
Parker-Bewertung Jahrgang 2007:
2007 Louis Roederer • Cristal
225, The Wine Advocate, 30th Jun 2016
Drink Date: 2016 - 2030
Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon calls Cristal "the first terroir cuvée of the Champagne." He furthers, "It’s not just Chardonnay or Pinot Noir, but the chalk that brings the ultimate finesse, length and precision of Cristal." Forty-five blocks with averaging age of 43-years-old, low-yielding vines form the base of Cristal, which is usually made of approximately 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay. Due to an early bud break (end of March) and the wet summer, the 2007 was picked at the end of August, so almost 100 days after the flowering instead of the normal 93-95 days. There is a bit less Pinot Noir than usual (57%) and accordingly, more Chardonnay (43%) in the 2007 Cristal. This Champagne comes along in a golden color and with a deep and matured, yet well-defined bouquet of ripe yellow fruits and honey notes. Full-bodied, round and very complex, the generous 2007 is a perfect mix of ripe fruit and precise minerality. It is a silky textured, pure and precise, as well as powerful and expressive Champagne. It has great tension and grip in the very long and persistent finish. Great expression of chalk. The 2007 was disgorged in 2015. The 2009 is to be released in September; the 2008 won't be in the market earlier than January 2018. Neither a 2010 nor a 2011 will be released, but a 2012.
Except of the Brut Premier and the Carte Blanche (which I did never taste) all Roederer cuvées are vintage Champagnes; or to be more precise - terroir-driven millésimes. Since the prestigious family-owned estate in Reims cultivates a stately amount of grand cru vineyards between their pressing centers in Verzepay (Montagne de Reims), Ay (Vallée de la Marne) and Avize (Côte de Blancs), Louis Roederer focuses on the production of a neat range of distinctive Champagnes. These are not just influenced by the blending of varietals (mostly barrel-fermented Pinot Noir and Chardonnay but also Meunier), but the characteristics of every single plot whose musts and wines are carefully combined by chef de cave Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon. The result is a beautiful range of classic Champagnes that contain the famous Cristal (Blanc and Rosé). Mind you, though, that not a single cuvée of Louis Roederer is of just average quality. At least the difference of quality between the Blanc de Blancs Vintage (currently 2009) or the Vintage (2008) is much smaller compared to the Cristal (2007) than the price might indicate. In fact, I don't leave my home airport (in both directions) without buying a bottle of Roederer's excellent 2008 Vintage.
Fachpressebewertungen Jahrgang 2009:
97/100 Punkte James Suckling: A very rich and full-bodied Cristal that harks back to 2006 or 1989 in style. It's round and rich, which underlies the ripeness of the vintage. Lots of dried-apple and pineapple character with bread dough and flan flavors. The bubbles are so fine you almost don't notice them. Very vinous style. Drink now.
96/100 Punkte Wine & Spirits
95/100 Punkte Wine Spectator: White peach and acacia blossom aromas accent the flavors of poached apple, gingersnap biscuit, pastry cream and spun honey in this harmonious Champagne. The satiny mousse caresses the palate, while firm, focused acidity drives the lasting finish. Drink now through 2030. 2,645 cases imported.
18+/20 Punkte Jancis Robinson: An interesting contrast to the already-open Henriot 2009. I tasted this at the launch on of the top floor of The Shard, London's tallest building, looking at a fiery sunset and catching up on gossip with David Roberts MW of Goedhuis. Maybe the wine was served just a fraction too cool in recognition of the length of the guest list but it was extremely youthful and tight, so that there was not that much on the nose, but it built admirably through the palate to provide an intriguingly spicy, dense, long-lasting finish. I don't think that this 2009 has reached anything like its full potential and in a world that was not gagging for the latest vintage of Cristal, Roederer would have benefited from waiting a little while before releasing it. Given they have deliberately launched this before the 2008, I can only imagine how backward the older vintage is. It must be a real challenge for winemaker Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon to deliver wines that are easy to drink but do not sacrifice their potential. He is quoted as saying that the proportion of biodynamically-grown grapes in this vintage has reached 40% and will be greater in the future. The wine certainly has real dynamism. And I'm sure will deserve an even higher score eventually.
Meininger Award 2016: Weinunternehmen des Jahres International
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